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He suffered a resulting life long blind spot. Such injuries are uncommon and easily avoided by taking the precautions described. Using found materials from around the home as de facto solar filters is very dangerous. There are no materials found around the home that will safely filter the Sun's high intensity light. Some of these materials might look similar to solar filters but they are definitely not safe. The best policy is to assume that if it hasn't been made for the purpose, it isn't safe. Even during the final minute when the Sun is almost completely covered and the ambient lighting begins to looks like like twilight, the energy in the very thin crescent is more than capable of causing a permanent burn to the retina.

There are two accepted safe methods for watching a partial eclipse. One is to look through some sort of specially made filter material, the other is to use some sort of projection method. Method 1 Filters Eclipse shades, also called eclipse glasses are special cardboard frame sunglasses with properly made solar filters built-in. These are the most convenient filtration method. Do read the instructions. Some of these shades are not rated for continuous viewing but for viewing 30 seconds at a time.

These cardboard glasses use special filter materials that effectively cut all wavelengths of light including the dangerous IR and UV that de facto materials pass to your eyes. Your eyesight is definitely worth protecting. Other suitable filters are a number 14 arc welding filter available from welding suppliers or a special solar filters available from astronomical suppliers designed to be attached to telescopes or binoculars.

The oldest safe method is the projection method. Cut the side out of a large cardboard box. Punch a 5mm hole in the side. When you photograph something outside of our atmosphere, there is a fair amount of air between you and the subject. Light is transmitted from the sun or stars or reflected from the moon and planets and it travels through the vacuum of space until it reaches earth.

Once it arrives in the atmosphere, all your sharpness bets are off. If you took a photo of a building, mountain, or person miles and miles away, especially on a hazy day, you probably wouldn't really expect a super-sharp image, right? Now, think about an image of something captured on the far side of dozens of miles of air.

Super blood moon eclipse | Bangkok Post: learning

Probably not. So, if you are wondering what lens or filter is the sharpest to photograph distant things, or if you are wondering why your lunar craters or sunspots are not tack-sharp, even though you spent a ton of money on a super-sharp lens, just be grateful that earth has a protective shield around it that gives us air to breath and protects us from the harshness of outer space. And, also remember that there is a reason they try to put telescopes in dry places at high altitudes—or in orbit above the atmosphere!

This was my first time doing a lunar eclipse. Just as the eclipse started I clicked off a few shots with a full frame camera and a too short mm lens. First image was way over exposed, but it showed up a bluish orb to the left side of the moon about 5 moon-widths away. This "moon shape" was in half shadow.

  1. Look up! A lunar eclipse will pair with a very bright Jupiter in the dawn sky.
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  3. Who can see the lunar eclipse?.

As the eclipse progressed, the moon moved higher in respect to the orb. I am sorry we do not have a method here to post photos. If you'd like, please email me at toddv at bhphoto dot com and I can take a look. But, it sounds like the "flare" was stationary regardless of the moon's position in the frame.

When can I see the eclipse?

That might destroy my theory Will be using a mm PF sometimes with a 2x. Looks like cold weather and clear skies here in Florida! I hope you got some great shots. I would have preferred to keep it lower, but I could not precisely align my mount someone put a giant building in front of the north star! Cold weather in FL?

It was single-digits in New York last night! I wrapped hand warmers around my SkyGuider! Plus then working in the dark with unfamiliar equipment, heavy uncooperative mm lens on my D, polar alignment fiasco, glasses on, glasses off. So disappointed. Need a fully automated, software driven setup that arrives in one piece!! I am so sorry that you got frustrated with the iOptron. I will say that their manual is well-written, but a bit difficult to follow, even for this nerd. If it isn't already on its way back, let me know if I can help you! Email me through my website, if you would like.

Unfortunately, no one has developed a super-automated celestial tracking system for civilian use. Believe it or not, the Lockheed SR Blackbird spy plane used to have a celestial navigation system on board similar to that used by ICBMs that would track 6 stars in broad daylight and give the aircraft's position to GPS-level accuracy.

Unfortunately, no one has taken that system, made it inexpensive, and then attached it to some sort of camera tracking mount! Hi Todd, congratulations, this is simply the best article on photographing lunar eclipses! To answer your question, stacking might be a good way to defeat the motion blur. The other way would be to use an equatorial tracking mount. Hi, We had a lunar eclipse last night in Australia and whilst I wasn't intending to be awake at 4am, I was, so got busy with my Nikon D20 and mm telephoto.

The eclipse took about 1 hr from the first crescent to totality and I got some great shots every few minutes. The camera was braced on a fence post, so reasonably stable but there may have been some movement. It crossed my mind it would be better to unscrew the UV filter from the lens and immediately the double image disappeared.

Can anyone explain this phenomenon? What you were experiencing was simply "lens" flare caused by the filter.

What are the different types of full moons?

Even with exotic coatings, filters and lenses can flare, especially when pointed at bright objects surrounded by the blackness of space. Even without a filter, this can happen if the bright object is off-axis with the lens. I experienced this during the total solar eclipse last year and even when shooting Mars last weekend. With good glass, you are unlikely to notice this flare during day-time shots, but night really tests the optics of your setup.

Good call on removing the filter! Just know that filter removal doesn't always work If anyone else has a hypothesis and solution, I would love to hear them. I have done astronomical timelapse photography for years. In a shooting I can take hundreds of individual exposures and create a video in Light Room. I have learned that if the subject changes in brightness the only setting on the camera that can be changed between exposures and not create flickering is the shutter speed.

22 Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

I have done this successfully a number of times but the jump from one shutter speed to next can become noticeable in the video. I use a small but accurate equatorial mount drive to keep the moon centered. My approach for this lunar eclipse is to use a variable neutral density filter. Then at the start of the shoot when the moon is full I will stop down the filter to an appropriate level. Then as the moon slides into the umbra I will gradually open the filter through the partial phase until totality when the filter will then be fully open, leaving all camera settings alone, then reverse the process.

For something this long I will probably set my intervalometer to about 10 seconds between exposures, giving me ample time to make the filter adjustments. I am trying to visualize what this might look like. I guess that your goal with the VND filter is to keep the brightness of the moon relatively unchanged throughout the progression of the eclipse. My concern if that is the right word is that the brightness of the moon changes throughout the process, and by evening your exposures, it might kind of defeat the purpose of showing the time-lapse.

Another thought You might be cranking your ISO to unacceptable levels even with the tracking mount. It might be worth a try. Keep in mind that lunar eclipses are not super rare, so if you don't pull this one off, you will likely have another opportunity in the future Thanks for great article.

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  • I have cable releases and will use mirror lockup etc. Would really appreciate your input. As far as the D vs D I would use that for totality.

    Earthshine's Faint Illumination of the Moon Captured in Glorious Eclipse Photo

    Also, you don't need a lot of resolution during totality. Remember, you are photographing an object in shadow a couple of hundred thousand miles away. Regarding teleconverters, I have never been a big fan. Maybe I just never had good copies, but I always regretted the loss of sharpness when using teleconverters.

    If yours are super-sharp, then go for it. Remember that, even in the clear airs hopefully of Joshua Tree, you are going to be battling atmospheric turbulence.

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    • And, as you alluded to, you are going to be getting longer shutter speeds with the teleconverters I might be tempted to skip them, keep your shutter speeds and sharpness up, and crop in post production if you want to "get closer. You could actually swap bodies and lenses, too.

      Need an assistant? Parts of the world are in for show this morning, as the Earth will cloak the moon in its shadow. The penumbral eclipse will last four hours and 15 minutes, but might be noticeable for only a few minutes around am eastern and just to certain parts of the world.

      There will also be a sideshow act for the main event as Jupiter has made its closest approach to the moon and is shinning much brighter than usual. Scroll down for video. The penumbral eclipse will last four hours and 15 minutes, but might only be noticeable for a few minutes around am eastern. If you live in the eastern part of North America, Africa and Europe, you will unfortunately miss the stunning spectacle. Central and western parts of North America will have good seats and so will residents of eastern Asia.

      But for the sky watchers in the Pacific Ocean region, New Zealand, Japan and eastern Australia you will be able to witness the entire penumbral eclipse. Viewing this cosmic display takes little effort and can be done with a naked-eye. Some astronomers say to get the full experience, watch with binoculars at the start and end of totality to see a turquoise or blue band on the moon. If you live in the eastern part of North America, Africa or Europe, you will unfortunately miss the spectacle. But for sky watchers in the Pacific Ocean region, New Zealand, Japan and eastern Australia you will be able to witness the entire penumbral eclipse.

      For the most part, the eclipse will just cause the moon to look just slightly darker than usual. The penumbral eclipse occurs when the moon travels through the outer shadow of the Earth and is less than an umbral eclipse or less stunning than when the moon turns red because it's going through the dark part of Earth's shadow. About 35 percent of all eclipses are of the penumbral type, which may be difficult to detect even with a telescope, according to Fred Espenak , eclipse expert and retired emeritus American astrophysicist.

      When the moon and the Earth line up just right that is when a total lunar eclipse occurs. Partial and penumbral happen when they line up, but not perfectly. The moon will be 2. Although the East Coast will be shut out in the eclipse, they will be able to see a very bright Jupiter. Having made its way towards the moon, it will seem like an intense glowing star near the slightly dimmed full moon. The sun reaches , the full moon , Venus measures -5 and Sirius, the brightest star in the night sky, is Earlier this month, thousands of tourists and space enthusiasts flocked to Indonesia to catch the country's first solar eclipse in nearly 33 years.

      A total solar eclipse is only visible from a certain region on Earth and those who can see it are in the centre of the moon's shadow when it hits Earth. For a total eclipse to take place, the sun, moon and Earth must be in a direct line.